A guide to ski tuning

Two important things to help skis perform are to keep the edges sharp and the bases waxed. This allows the skis to grip and turn better and also slide well. This guide shows the method I use to tune my skis as an occasional recreational skier.

Tools

A work bench fitted with dedicated ski vices is ideal for working with skis but probably only needed by those who prepare a lot of skis. For the occasional skier a Black & Decker Workmate is a suitable alternative.
The waxing process can be messy and so is best done in a garage or workshop. Good ventilation is required as fumes may be given off during waxing.

Hot wax is applied using an iron. There are ski irons for doing this job, they keep an accurate control on the temperature but can be expensive to buy. An alternative method is to use a domestic electric iron.

Important! Once used for waxing skis a domestic iron cannot be used for ironing clothes.

A scraper is used to scrap off surplus wax. This can be either plastic or metal, I prefer to use a metal scraper. Brushes are also used, a brass brush and a nylon brush. Final polishing is done with a cork block.

To maintain the metal edges files and diamond stones are used. A bevel-edge-level is used to hold these at the correct angle for the edge. There are different types of bevel-edge-levels available. Some are of a fixed angle whilst others have adjustable angles. It is necessary for the guide's angle to match the skis edge's angle.

A brake retainer is used to keep the ski brake up and out of the way whilst working. I made my own using Velcro strips, cheap, simple and effective.

A ski brake being held by a retainer.

Edge tuning

New skis will have sharp edges and should not need tuning. Skiing will eventually dull the edges thus reducing their grip on snow and ice, tuning the edges will restore this grip.

Ski edges have two sides or angles; the base edge and the side edge. Tuning should be to the side edge angle only. Firstly the angle of the edge needs to be determined. This information may be provided by the manufacturer, if not then it can be worked out as follows.

Mark a small section of the edge with a black marker pen and then gently use a fine diamond stone with the shallowest guide or setting to polish off the pen mark. If only a strip of marker is removed then the guide is of the wrong angle. Repeat this with different guides or guide settings. The guide or setting that removes the mark across the full width of the edge is at the correct angle.

With the bevel-edge-guide and diamond stone sharpen the side edge as required. Only the minimum amount of sharpening should be done to avoid removing too much of the metal edge. Diamond stones are available in grades from coarse to fine. For sharpening ski edges a medium grade should suffice, giving a good edge without removing too much material. Regular use of diamond stones will keep the edges in tune.

This process may produce a burr on the edge. This can be removed by placing a fine diamond stone flat on the base edge and with medium pressure applied run it along the full length of the edge.

Tuning a side edge with a diamond stone.

Hot waxing

First clean the bases of the skis. There are propriety cleaners available to do this. Give the base a light rub down with the cleaner using a clean rag and allow to dry.

There are many types of hot-wax available to suit different types of snow conditions and temperature. There are also general purpose waxes which are usable over a range of conditions likely to be found by recreational skiers.
I use Toko universal all-in-one hot-wax as it gives good results for my recreational skiing.

Toko all-in-one hot-wax.

The hot-wax needs to be melted onto the ski base using an iron. Firstly melt the wax with the iron and drizzle drops of wax along the length of the base. Then iron the drops into a layer and allow to cool and harden. Some of the wax is absorbed by the base during the hot-waxing.

Important! Too much heat will damage the ski base. Keep the iron moving, do not allow it to stand on the ski base and do not set the iron temperature too high.

Scraping and brushing

The ski base needs to be scraped to remove surplus wax. This is done by using a scraper applied across the ski at about 45° and then moved along the length of the ski. This should leave a smooth flat surface, it is the absorbed wax which helps the skis to glide.

There may be drips of wax along the sides and edges of the skis these should be prised off using a plastic scraper.

After scraping a brass-wire brush is used to lightly brush up and down the length of the base. Then the base is brushed with a nylon brush. To finish off a cork block is used to polish the base.